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Glow & Gas Home Page

Author: Gary Hethcoat

Even though "wet" power is called "gas", it's not the same as car gasoline. Model fuel is usually a mixture of a lubricant (synthetic or castor oil), methanol and nitromethane. The power plants are usually called engines, as opposed to electrics, which use motors (see below). Engines are available in 2-stroke (louder, cheaper, and more powerful for the same displacement) and 4-stroke (a more scale sound, less vibration, but more expensive). Engine displacements are usually measured in cu. in. the US (A 60 engine = 10cc [actually 0.61 cu. in.]).

FACTS ABOUT GLOW FUEL
No. 1 - What’s the Oil Content?
No. 2 - Which Oil is Better - Synthetic or Castor?
No. 3 - Nitromethane, the Mystery Ingredient?
No. 4 - 2-Stroke vs. 4-Stroke Fuels
No. 5 - Storing Fuel for Maximum Shelf Life

POWERMASTER FUELS have been the winner’s choice in the hobby industry for many years. Now under new ownership, we strive to continue this tradition. Our honesty, and hard work are traits that modelers have come to expect and rely on.

Table of fuel components and their characteristics!

We believe modelers like to know where their fuel comes from and we don’t mind showing you the Byron Originals Fuel Blending Facilities in Ida Grove, Iowa, USA. These are State-of-the-Art Facilities, dedicated only to blending model engine fuels!

Thank you for choosing Wildcat Fuels. We are confident that Wildcat will be the obvious choice for you and your model fuel needs. We promise to always honor our commitment to disclosure of our products contents including Nitromethane, Oil content, Oil composition, and Percent volumes; because you have the right to know what your putting in your engine!

Morgan Fuels manufactures model engine fuel, go-kart lubricant, gasoline additive, and laundry detergent. We have been in business for over 25 years. It is our goal to provide products that are A LITTLE DIFFERENT BUT A LOT BETTER

Compared to beginner's gliders, powered trainers are more difficult to master. This means that everything about instructors and equipment checks goes DOUBLE for powered planes. There are many, many ways a beginner can make mistakes and destroy a model that he/she has spent alot of time and money on. With the typical powered trainer, going it alone is foolhardy and will likely end with a destroyed model and a very disappointed modeler.

If you can't find an expert that is willing to teach you, it is best to start with a 2-3 channel model with a long wingspan and alot of dihedral. The ideal thing to start with here would be a 2 channel glider. If you must start with a powered plane, a Sig Kadet is one of the more docile trainers.

If you have an instructor, but have not flown R/C before, you can start with something a bit more advanced. In general, the larger the plane, the easier it is to see and to fly; but at the same time, the more expensive it is. The most popular size is the so-called "40-size" plane, with about a 50" wingspan and .40 cu. in. engine. The Great Planes PT-20/40/60 series are good. You can build these with ailerons, but due to their large dihedral, they can also be flown without ailerons. It won't hurt to have them built-in. Even though they will not be very effective, they will get you used to using them. Other recommended planes are the Midwest Aerostar and the Goldberg Eagle. Something with a "tricycle" undercarriage, that is one with a nosewheel and two main wheels, is the easiest to learn on.

If you have an instructor, and have flown R/C gliders, you might want to start with something still more advanced, say a Great Planes Trainer 20/40/60 or the like. These have a fully symmetrical airfoil and less dihedral. They are capable of more in the way of aerobatics, but are trickier to fly due to higher speed and less stability.

If you come across any additional tips that you would like to share with everyone please email them to me at this site. I can be reached at rcmodeling@gmail.com. Please feel free to contact me so we can talk about one of our favorite hobbies!

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