
Table of
Contents:
Understanding the fuel system on
all YS 4 Cycle engines, FZ53 ~ FZ140.
As you know the YS
4 cycle engines work with a pressurized fuel system. This system is what
delivers the fuel from the tank to the engine. I will start with the pressure
coming from the engine to the tank first. How the engine produces pressure will
be another topic.
As the engine turns, it will
develop pressure. Part of this pressure is fed into the tank via the (return
line, or pressure line, or tank overflow line). This is where the check valve
is located. The job of the check valve is not to let pressure return back into
the engine and keep pressure in the tank. The amount of pressure an engine
develops is between 6~9 lbs. at full throttle.
Now that we have a tank full of
fuel and pressure, we need to control it before it floods out the engine. This
is done with the fuel regulator. The regulator is just an open or closed valve
that is like a gardening hose sprayer, on or off Thats it. The regulator
does not control tank pressure or any air pressure at all.
Controlling when the regulator
opens and closes is the next thing. If you take off the regulator assembly, you
will see a cavity in the engine case with two holes "Except for the FZ140". The
center hole is where the pressure comes in from the crankshaft. The hole that
is drilled at an angle is for the pressure going to the tank. As you turn the
crankshaft, you will notice the center hole will open up. This is when the
crankcase pressure will push on the diaphragm. At that moment the plunger will
open and fuel will pass throw the regulator and into the carburetor. As the
crankshafts hole passes the opening, this will drop the pressure in the
cavity and the regulator plunger will close stopping fuel from passing to the
carburetor.
 Fuel system for connecting a fuel tank to a YS engine. The red fuel tubing represents the pressure side of the system and the vent tube. The blue fuel tubing is the fuel feed to the engine and the fill tube. Fuel dot's & tee's are available from Tower Hobbies or your local Auto Parts Store
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Propeller Selection
The choice of propeller is of great importance. Here I will try to explain in a simple way to choose prop for aerobatic use
Over the past 10 years, APC has almost been dominating the aerobatic scene. APC is a very efficient propeller design, especially the tips, which make them very quiet and efficient.
We want good static force, used during long vertical climbs, which keeps the model climbing without loosing too much speed. The static force should be greater than the weight of the model. This force is very much dependant on the diameter of the propeller, the largest volume of air as possible should be set into movement by the propeller. One more advantage of using large diameter is that the "rotating disk" acts as an air brake during vertical dives.
Speed is needed to make the plane fly, but we are not looking for as high speed as possible. We want a speed fast enough to make the plane fly steady, but not too fast which will make the turn-around program feel and look very stressful.
The speed is dependant on the propeller pitch.
The maximum engine RPM used during flight is about 8000 - 9000 rpm.
With this criteria in mind we can select a good propeller size.
At our disposal is the engine power (EP), which will be loaded by the propeller. An increase of propeller diameter (D) will increase the engine load. The greater the propeller pitch (P) will also increase the load of the engine. A simple formula would be like EP = D x P.
So we must make a compromise between static force (diameter) and speed (pitch).
(Source Data Swedish F3A Web site)
Suggested propeller sizes for YS four strokes
are as follows: -
YS63FZ Keep the RPM in the 10,500 to 11,500. APC 12 x 7
YS 120 AC Recommended RPM: 9000 max APC 14,5x13 / 15x12 / 15x11
YS 120SC Recommended RPM 7800 to 8000 APC 14,5x13 / 15x12 / 15,5x13N / 16,5x12N / 16x12
YS91FZ The correct range is 8,800 to 9,300 RPM. APC 14 x 10 / 15 x 8
YS 140FZ The normal working-range is about 7500 - 9000 RPM.APC 16x12 / 15 x 12
YS140L Works well from 8,300 to 9,000 on props up to 18 x 6. APC 15 x 12 to 16 x 12
PROPELLERS ON ALL MODEL AIRCRAFT ARE DANGEROUS! ALWAYS WEAR EYE AND HAND PROTECTION WHEN STARTING AND RUNNING ENGINES, AND ALWAYS HAVE A HELPER HOLD YOUR AIRCRAFT DURING STARTING AND RUN-UP. ALWAYS STAND BEHIND THE PROPELLER WHEN MAKING ANY ENGINE ADJUSTMENTS. {Top of Page}
Most common fuel system
problems:
- Cracked fuel tank: Split at a seam
- Clunk line hitting back of tank: As fuel
line gets older if will stretch and go soft.
- Fuel line and Fuel line "T"s:
Not holding
pressure.
- Silicone Rubber:
I
have found many engines plugged up with bits of silicone.
- Diaphragm:
Check
for cracks or torn around the edges.
- Regulator Gasket:
Plugging
up holes for fuel and or pressure.
- Dirt in Carb:
Yes
even if you have fuel filters
.
Using in-line fuel
filters is a good way to prevent junk from getting into the carb but remember,
anything that can go into the carburetor can make its way to the fuel
regulator. I have seen the following stuck in regulators and inside
engines:
- Grass
- Paint
chips
- Mud
- Balsa
wood
- 4/40 belly pan
bolt ( Roy S.) in a 91AC.
- Silicone
Rubber
- ??? And to this
day I still can not describe it but it was in there.
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Starting
Procedure
- Fill the tank with fuel using the fuel dots to fill and vent
the tank as shown in the sketch above.
- Open the needle valve 2 turns from the fully closed position.
- Open the throttle to the idle position and turn the propeller
over 10 times by hand to pressurize the tank.
- Now open the throttle fully and turn the propeller over a further10
times by hand this sends fuel to carburettor and primes the engine.
- Now CLOSE the throttle to the idle position and connect the
glow plug cord. The engine is now ready for starting.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE ENGINE AT FULL THROTTLE
AS THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS.
- Use an electric starter to turn the engine over, it should start
immediately. (Always make sure the aircraft is tethered down or
have a helper hold the aircraft to stop it leaping forward
- Let the engine warm up fully before opening the throttle.
- When you are satisfied the engine has warmed up, gently open
up the throttle to about half to allow the fuel tank to fully
pressurize. (If you immediately open it up to full throttle the
engine will go lean and throw the propeller, ouch...!!!)
- If the engine sounds ok and is not labouring gently open the
throttle fully and adjust as detailed below.
- Once the engine has been fully run in and adjusted it will very
rarely need to touched.
ALWAYS STAND BEHIND THE PROPELLER WHEN MAKING ADJUSTMENTS
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Detonation:
I have heard, listened,
talked about and even shock my head from side to side hearing some of the
methods on how to set carburetors on model airplane engines. All I can say is
WOW.
For the most part, I think
some people really dont know what Pre-detonation is or what it sounds
like. Let me tell you that IT IS BAD
..
Detonation is when the
piston is coming up on the compression stroke, the fuel will explode and the
expanding gases will push down on the piston. This explosion will happen around
42 degrees before top dead center. This means that the fuel is starting to burn
before the piston reaches the top.
Pre-detonation is when the
fuel is starting to burn before 42 degrees or way too soon. This is when the
engine will start working against its self. If the explosion is too soon,
the piston has to work harder to reach the top. The sound you hear is a pinging
or rattling type noise usually just before the spinner and prop start to fly
off.
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YS Carburetor Setup
Yes the YS
engines are fuel injected but it is a different story when the engine is at
idle. The fuel system changes from injected to sucking the fuel.
When you first fire
up your engine you always want to run it rich........But after break-in
you start to lean out the top end to the max RPM's. Hopefully you
are not exceeding 9,000rpm's ????? That is for the 140, 120 and
91. The 53's and 63's like to run at 11,000rpm's.
Next you want
to bring your engine to an idle. The proper idle is 2,000rpm's. Not 22 or 25 or
3000, set at 2,000. This is when the engine starts to suck the fuel Via vacuum.
Above 2,000 it will start to inject the fuel.
TOP
END
After you warm it up
and slowly bring the engine up to full throttle, set the top end to it's max
rpm's and back off or richen up the needle 3~4 clicks.
LOW
END
After top end is set,
bring it to an idle 2,000rpm's. From full throttle set your trim so it will hit
2,000 instantly not drop slowly like 35,30,25,22, 2,000. NO it has to hit 2,000
BANG.........After about 3 seconds, the engine will start to let you know if it
is to lean or rich.
If the mixture is to
rich, the rpm's will start to slow down 2,000 19,18,17. Lean the low
end.
If the mixture is to
lean, the rpm's will start to speed up 2,000 21,22,23. Richen up the low
end.
Remember, after you
adjust the low end, always bring it back to full throttle and back to an idle
to test your adjustments. DO NOT CHASE THE MIXTURE. make the adjustment within
5 seconds when you hit idle, Do not let it idle for 10, 20 seconds and try to
adjust again. You must bring it to full first and back down to check the
adjustment.
After adjusting the
low end, it should idle at 2,000 consistently for about 20
seconds.
After the 20 seconds,
bring it back up to full throttle by rolling the throttle stick up. DO NOT NAIL
IT TO FULL !!!!!! THROTTLE............ Roll it. It should take you just over 1
second to go from idle to full.
Another trick to test
if the mixture is correct is to pull off the fuel line at the carburetor at
idle. There should not be any fuel coming out of the fuel line. If you do, you
are still to rich. This is best done on the bench and not on the
plane.
With this last test,
many other factors can cause fuel to come out of the fuel line at
idle.
- Bad Check
Valve
- Piston ring worn
out causing to much blow-by
- Leaking intake
valve
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140 Limited
with YS Soft Mount
the YS Soft Mount
Part number YS0001 for the FZ140L

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Well I hope this is
of some help.
Till next time
Rick
Mattie
Developed by
Geistware of Indiana© ., 1999.
Updated February 28, 2004
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